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Shaft Sailboat Outboard

Engine Repairs

Engine Running Hot or overheating ....

As you know, this is a broad area, to discuss because so many factors that can cause an engine to run hot or overheat. Let us begin.

For this article, we consider it Fresh water cooled Inboard, Inboard / outboard gasoline engines ... .. but can get the most information on diesel.

Let's the hatches and open look .... There are several components (parts) to the cooling system.

1. Belts and Hoses

2. Salt-Thru Fitting

3. Salt Water pump (has rubber impeller)

4. Heat Exchanger (Fresh water cooling)

5. Engine water pump (freshwater)

6. Thermostat

7. Antifreeze

Let's see you can drive on each component / part, and what can run your engine to overheat hot or ... There could be a thing that is causing the problem or a combination.

Belts and hoses:

Sometimes it's as simple as adjusting your belt. A V-belt changed Your Salt Water pump switches, your fresh water pump more ... one fan belt should not turn them both. The fan belt should be towards the top of the pulley groove not occurred to him in ... a sign that the belt will sit worn and used, it is the life. Change all wear belts tighten and adjust the manufacturers specifications. It should about a ½ inch play when pushing up or down have on the belt. With new and / or well-adjusted belt, pulley of the pump now turn to more efficient no slipping and pump more water through the engine.

Your cooling system hoses should be no leaks or bloated. You should feel so tight that the flow of water in the tube is not deformed or handicapped in any way. This also brings more volume of water in your engine, cooling it down. Do not forget your hose clamps Pull and check if necessary.

Loose fan belt, / distorted tubes inflated can regard flow of water restrictions. At higher speeds and revs, the engine creates more heat and.additional cooling capacity is needed. If you slip belts and hoses must be so distorted lower cooling water quantity, you can bet that will display your temperature to rise further when you do not want ..

Salt-Thru Cultivation:

Your Thru Salt Water Intake of course it should work. The valve should move easily and the hose should a company to to feel it. If the sides squeezes in too easily, the pump it comes to Salt Water cut off the flow of water hose may collapse ... even when it breaks part of the way, This restriction will affect your engine cooling and keep your engine temperature up. To make sure the hose is good. The Thru-Hull fitting on the bottom the boat has a ball with a few bars on them to form larger objects always what I normally do to keep sucked when I run a heat engine or overheating have to test it and clean it. On smaller href = "http://www.yachtauthority.com/"> Boats, you can learn under the front grill clean. If your thru-hull fitting ball valve work properly, I close the sea cock (ball valve), remove the hose and open the sea cock on the amount of flow to see ... It should be a gusher (your wooden plug in the vicinity for security). If the amount of Water is questionable coming in, I usually close to the sea cock, add a garden hose so that you do and turn it on. This is the opposite pressure and will clean up, that including some rust ... turn the sea cock and off to help a few times, blow off any growth on them.

Note: You have just match the water flow checked by the Thru-Hull (hopefully good flow) reviewed ... The hose for the strength, to your Salt Water pump ... Looks good go!

Salt Water pump (has rubber impeller):

Now we get to the salt water pump the salt water flows to your freshwater Heat Exchanger cools (your antifreeze). Check for any leakage to the outside. Now we want to check your rubber impeller ... I know you could have done recently, but read on. Remove the rubber wheel and check any rubber lip. There should be no cracks in it, as you bend one way then the other. There should not be split either somewhere. You can compare it to a new you on board .... If you do not have a new spare wheel, it's cheap insurance, if you ... The rubber impeller should not move to separate around the metal center ... it should be secured. Back in the pump itself, there are two holes .. One of your hose (Thru-hull fitting) and go to your Heat Exchanger. Look closely in the holes ... some of your past might have lost an impeller blade and into the hole made or below. Check carefully and remove all foreign plays and with a garden hose water for anything else, from ... it would be good if both hoses are replaced, and ensure that the sea cock is turned off. They also have a beveled piece of brass in the pump to the blades squeeze and create suction. Make sure it is there and of course, that it is smooth. If it is demolished, it will do the same to your rubber impeller. Do you have a good seal on your wheel cover (will not suck air), and add some fat to your Shaft hub caps. Make sure when you pull the cap is getting fat on the shaft. It is your shaft and shaft seal, so you do not ... If leak persists, the leak from the shaft, a new shaft seal can be installed.

Note: With a good flow to and from your Salt Water pump, we are looking good.

Heat Exchanger (Fresh water cooling):

Your heat exchanger is generally tubular having two separate areas within it. One area for brine, water flow and the other for fresh water . Flow The fresh water (water / antifreeze mix) by absorbing the heat within the engine hot. As the Fresh Water flows through the heat exchanger, takes the cool salt water the fresh water heat, cooling the water down so it is ready to back through the engine to pick up some more heat. The salt water is that now hot from the freshwater flows from the heat exchanger into the end of the exhaust manifold, real cool hot exhaust as it leaves the engine in the Exhaust air hose to an exhaust speaking then on board (Generally)

Some algae can be caught here (salt water side), and eel Grasses. You can remove the end caps to blow away his jet or any foreign matter. (End caps in general, only the salt water open side, to be sure) can Disconnect also the salt water hoses and back flush with a garden hose and clearly pointed out that way. A good check for the restriction flow of salt water the salt water from the hose heat exchanger is separate to the exhaust manifold. Where the hose connects, rust seems to squeeze the hole closed. His gentle, Clerk of loose rust and / or foreign body, which has set itself in this area. Easy Jet shock or some water through the area to make sure everything is clear.

Note: In general, everything that happens in the heat exchanger is that things get caught in them, restricting flow ... everything we want, it is clear, until so exchanged the heat from the fresh water in the salt water is done faster cooling of the water even further. Remember to check that whether exhaust manifold connection ... if the brine is restricted there, it keeps your fresh water and hot ... We do not want that ... We are unrestricted by Flow like!

Note When properly made this area, "They should come from fresh water heat exchangers cool, so pick-up can more engine heat, keep your engine cooler.

Engine water pump (freshwater):

Your engine water pump usually an integral part of the engine. It screws on and off, but still check around the areas of seal leaks. There are really no serviceable Parts and all this pump does not circulate the fresh water (water / antifreeze mix) around the engine to pick up heat. It goes back to the heat exchanger the heat to transferred to the brine, and then back again to the engine. It is to cry a hole (small holes) under and behind the water pump pulley. If this leak at all, replaced. When the engine is off, see if you can cry you a flashlight and find the hole ... Sometimes it is staining which one does not change ... Leak she says, it will only get worse. Even if the engine the water pump is many years old, the metal wheel can be worn inside. This slows the movement of water around the engine. It would be a good idea to change it ... If it be that old, is their "days are numbered.

Note: The engine is a water pump straight engine parts. No water is crying out of the hole, no water stains, and the pump is not so old ... I guess we are good here.

Thermostat:

Your engine thermostat is regulated, what the engine temperature. You can get thermostats at different temperatures, but use the engine for your evaluated.

An old thermostat is sluggish, the engine temperature usually causes remain high. A sticky thermostat will lead to overheating. No thermostat even the engine is running too hot or cause overheating because the water is passing through to quickly pick up any heat. At idle, it will be ok (but too cool), but at higher speeds and engine speeds, the water is by ... to quickly zoom. Get a good brand thermostat installed, designed for the right temperature and your set.

Note: With the proper thermostat, you can not go wrong. You want your engine temperature regulated are correct to the temperature.

Antifreeze: This is the right mix of water and the antifreeze is essential. This allows an optimal absorption of heat (a high transfer rate). Check the engine manufacturers specs.

* Final Note: There are other things that affect the temperature of the engine such as engine ignition timing, clogged Prop wrong size, or internally cracked manifold ... etc. But we come across these basic areas will either fix or help you narrow down your problem. Plus you get more experienced your engine cooling system!

Happy Boating!

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