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Four Seasons at 50

Four Seasons: Still Kicking at 50

The kitchen is equipped with the right mouse button on this evening with wonderful Osso Buco on the $ 59 prix fixe. Photo: Steven Richter

I'm always anxious when I walk into the Seasons Four. I do not want to see, frayed carpet or mat service plates. I want to be fresh and wonderful. It's the same feeling I at lunch obtained with an aging beau from college days. Or the naughty boy I loved when he was 30 and I was a Disco Dancing Queen on 43rd I want it exactly the same . Look If you are old enough, you'll know what I mean. I want to see Joe Baum Snappy Go-for-broke Four Seasons, where the ultimate management of Hungary, George Lang and Paul Kovi, the stage, the newly upholstered banquet set and ordered the cherry blossoms, the green book of matches, the waiters' spring become the season cummerbund. It was a 12-page "Winter Is Here" Countdown Procedure Manual Fresh from the Xerox "to stress at the Four Seasons" Psyche, "I reported in" Can Spring far behind? "

This January 1970 in New York write 'I took his measure in the eleventh year. "The Four Seasons opened in July 1959," I wrote. "It was this year the restaurant. It could be bleak pales in last year's restaurant, but it has matured and mellowed with age. It is the longest running play on Broadway or off, a Fantasy New York - New York in Stainless Steel. Intimidating, coolly elegant, extravagantly mannered, exciting, contemporary, Stark, Art in the interest of the show, Show for the sake of money, imagine full of disposable luxury (to be determined flute a mushroom for impending slicing). Like New York, the city, they can overcome be. A few days of soaring canyon of steel and marble-bounded space seems almost cozy. And while the city rots, most of these New York restaurants never unlaxes. The service is crisp Fred Astaire. "

A fine balance of flavors goes to the sweetness of the day boat scallops ceviche. Photo: Steven Richter.

And now, amazingly, shaking the city again in crisis. The Grand Dame is 50, not more the expensive maîtresse of wild on-the-house barrel tasting for the trade volume, press and Daddies Warbucks of the snooty wine companies, but still graceful and well.

In recent years I have felt in the front room like a teenage groupie Grill at the Titans were, charting the Power Lunch, that was first documented in 1979, the Esquire with miniature packages designed by women from the small hands of the Japanese, according to Paul Kovi and Tom Margittai (Still a stylish Hungarian), which bought the site of a shipwreck Restaurant Associates had. It was cruel and catastrophic shifts in power have been in our city, but what left by the Masters of the Universe - political, financial, media, real estate - some limping and bruised by the current Fallout - still eager to show their status table at lunch in the third dynasty of the Four Seasons, Julian Niccolini and Alex where von Bidder referee now.

Our friend Bob, a regular, has attracted us - the Road Warrior Food and me - the pool room tonight in the reign of this odd couple - Julian roguish, prim Alex - the $ 59 three-course menu served taste to go through the whole year is celebrating the birthday. In Uptown actually a bargain because this is bison filet with foie gras alone costs $ 55 on the regular menu.

I check out the carpet. It is fresh enough. The ladies toilet? Paper towels, but those luxury cottony. I am relieved that Picasso Theatrical backdrop to see still hanging on the wall between two rooms. I'm afraid it can be sold. The pool looks clean. Ah, the blue neon of the Chase logo on Park Avenue, sensual blaring through the chain curtains, is a terrible scar.

Gravlax mustard-dill sauce bar with developed out of the day where as "The Grill" was known. Photo: Steven Richter.

Quite frankly, we are all surprised that the food quite good is. We love the old lady and secretly, which we now admit, we were concerned they do not have it in her. Disappointments in the grill over the years leave have low expectations. True, this listless, cut version of the House of robust thin, once revolutionary gravlax with mustard-dill sauce, does not fit Memories.

It was thick and toasted. And the small, delicate croissants from ancient times are inflated and not very French, but Bob can not stop eating them. "I always get so short before I left for the Golden Door", he explains, he switched to over-indulge, when the waiter brings a fresh batch warm in oven.

An addition of croissants comes with appetizers, including a beautiful rarish chop. Photo: Steven Richter.

But tonight's chef Christian Albin's dayboat scallop ceviche an intelligent balance of sweet scallops, red onions, Tomatoes and oranges in two colors with a soft Afterburn. It is impossible to cool and keep critical of my head risotto, souped up clearly in my honor. It is almost half a lobster, delicately prepared and high with black truffles, truffles remarkable. The aroma wafts to my nose as it hits the table. There are more risotto next to my Osso Buco, of course, is yellow with saffron in the classic Four Seasons output, and the meat juicy and cooked through, perfectly caramelized. It is not easy one double-thick pork chop, moist and as pink as Steven wants it, and this is. The accompanying buttery wild rice pancakes Apple keeps the big chop in front a little bit boring. Bob sends his salmon and insisted it is not rare enough. "You can get it back raw," I have to warn him. And sure enough, the new salmon is too raw for me. I like my salmon rare, but warm. But both Bob and Steven insist they prefer as close to sushi.

The room is cheerful, even though only half full on a Monday. Niccolini jumps around in high spirits this evening, Bob teased unmercifully. He's either amazingly happy with life, or had a few drinks, I decide, it just race off to squat on a bench next to a glamorous Russian "with legs up to here."

A duo petting session stuck close to a nearby banquette - from dessert she cuddled his neck, almost sitting on his lap - to remind me how tempting may be the Pool Room dinner à deux. I remember when drunk on a hot day and in the 70 years I ventured down slide under the table. "I can not," I whispered. "I'm a restaurant critic." And I remember the bitter sweetness of being at a table for two beside the pool on the evening of our last Years after sitting my husband and I had decided to divorce. The house had placed a large flower arrangement on the marble pool in addition to our top two. "Quenelle Power, "my husband called it, with its short for those benefits, often came to me as in New York Insatiable Critic. I interviewed on Hedy Lamarr Noon for a 1970 Ladies' Home Journal story called "How the World's Great Beauties Stay Beautiful" (Gene and Plastic Surgery seemed key) and tried to get them to jump into the pool naked as she was famous in the 1933 Czech film Ecstasy. They did not seem in the least interested.

And I always smile when I remember questioning Paul Bocuse in the kitchen for the first time he got America to - href = "http://www.insatiable-critic.com/Article.aspx?ID=500&keyword=Paul 20Bocuse%%% 20the% 20Cooks 20Dinner% 20of% 20the% 20century"> click here to read "Paul Bocuse cooked dinner of the century." The big band Lyonnais chef an apron around my waist and asked me to peel a pound truffle delicacy, a rare but he could afford it. But what do I know? For years after I criticized constantly unpeeled truffles ... I wonder if someone I really ashamed in Peel.

White chocolate is a big mistake on this mini heirloon the cake. Photo: Steven Richter

In those early days, put the stylish desserts is wheeled to the table set off frissons feverish expectation, although I almost always chose the chocolate velvet. Of course I could expect a few extras cozening, a piece of their Cake and imagination - from the large cut bow "hat" in the dark Chocolate frosted. And ice. The old world cart was retired and this evening some part of a flat slab of chocolate velvet is not the temptation lustful I remember. This miniature version is wearing a gown of white chocolate, soapy water with light brown stripes chocolate. By far the better is the Tarte Tatin with verbena ice cream.

For old times sake, for your youth or the past, community, Posh, that survives in this landmark of taste, I call for a Four Seasons anniversary trip This year, the $ 59 prix fixe. True, with five glasses of wine, tax and tip, we spent $ 103 per person. Positive and a serious wine or two might to the total. I say no excuse is good to keep the Four Seasons on estrogen. I was feeling rich the next morning my own economic stimulus package to do.

99 East 52nd between Park and Lexington Avenue. 212 754 9494th Sunday closed.

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